Power, not fantasy: young designers are inspired by lingerie

Power, not fantasy: young designers are inspired by lingerie

Writer CNN’s Helen Jennings

From Vivienne Westwood’s Victorian corset to Calvin Klein’s oblique cutouts, lingerie has always had a place on the runway.

Although it is famous for conforming to male fantasies, female underwear has also been used to promote the development of emancipating the mind, that is, how women proudly display their bodies and express sexual desire. (Think of Madonna on her Gautier Cone BraOr Coco Chanel (Coco Chanel) in pajamas to entertain).
In recent years, the industry has undergone tremendous changes Transfer. a lot of Women no longer like the “Hello Boys” push-up bra, but prefer brands such as Marieyat and Les Girls Les Boys, which reflect cultural attitudes towards diversity, physical positivity and gender mobility. Exaggerated once Victoria’s Secret The show has been greatly reduced The following dispute In narrow places-and often Culturally inappropriate -Portraying the beauty of women, and Rihanna Wild x mania To celebrate Its inclusive castings and designs are suitable for all shapes, sizes and skin tones.

Solange is wearing Elena Velez’s Spring / Summer 2019 look. Credit: Elena Velez

All of this illustrates today ’s new visual language and its The diversity of natural beauty and what fashion can do for our happiness. Now, this is a message that can convey information more than ever before. These messages require women to be represented by the brand of their choice, rather than eroding their mental health because of the unachievable perfect image.

For today’s most fashionable fashion talent, this has not been lost. By recording how women’s underwear is constructed and their response to human form, they create clothes that both demonstrate personality and empower.

The following are three young female designers whose views on fashion inspired by underwear are leading the trend.

Chiffon and Steele

To date, there are three series of American designers Elena Velez wore Grimes, Charli XCX, Solange and Ariana Grande costumes, and appeared in New York and London Fashion Week.

However, it was not the charm of fashion that inspired Velez. Instead, she turned to Milwaukee, Wisconsin, to seek design ideas. Her mother is the captain of the Great Lakes region and is now the strong woman that Velez wants to wear now.

However, when she grew up, she felt different about her mother’s appearance and dress. In a telephone interview, she said: “I want her to look pretty-paint her nails or wear high heels.” “I don’t understand the importance of her ripped jeans, knotted hair or pleated flannel. But now I appreciate her utilitarian beauty brand. ”

Elena Velez often uses redesigned nautical materials (such as ropes and sails) for creation (Spring / Summer 2020)

Elena Velez often uses redesigned nautical materials (such as ropes and sails) for creation (Spring / Summer 2020) Credit: Elena Velez

Velez now lives in London, and she regularly returns to her home to create her collection with modified sails, ropes and leather. She calls it the iconic “aggressive and refined” work, which is characterized by its fragile shape reminiscent of almost no bullets and petticoats, which are combined with corset-style steel pole construction made in cooperation with Milwaukee’s metalsmith Together. manufacturing.

Velez said: “It has such a heavy Midwest blue collar connotation.” “I use these local materials to study the relationship between femininity and perseverance. What better way to bring you from my mother’s shipyard to me. Is the world more effective? “

Velez studied at the Parsons School of Design in New York and is currently completing her Master of Arts degree at Central Saint Martins College in London, where she continues to dive into a romantic and powerful future femininity. For her, vulnerability comes from strength.

“Defending delicate people every day is a bloody battle. Sometimes I feel like a scarred warrior, protecting a fragile and sensitive heart. Chiffon and steel are very important to me as a woman now. Meaning. ”

Embrace complexity

Nensi Dojaka has long admired the art of underwear and its ability to empower wearers. This is evident in her intricate design, she wraps the female form in a twisted transparent textile net, exuding raw and unreasonable sexiness.

Doyaka said in an e-mail: “I am interested in the way of constructing women’s silhouette underwear; for example, how some delicate belts can be fixed and create an overall power.” “I like to use the same details as underwear Working with proportions and working in the same pure production way, which allows me to maintain a sense of transparency. “

Nensi Dojaka's show at London Fashion Week in February 2020.

Nensi Dojaka’s show at London Fashion Week in February 2020. Credit: Stuart Wilson / BFC / Getty Images

The Albanian-born designer developed her current iconic draping technique during her graduation from the Master of Arts at Central Saint Martins College in 2019. Dojaka asked her model to take a portrait of herself on her mobile phone-commenting that her view of women should control her image. In the fall and winter of 2020, she made her debut at London Fashion Week and Fashion East, displaying a confident deconstructed mini camisole skirt, a round bra top and a dark neutral tone drawstring skirt. These fine clothes wear manly shirts and suit jackets.

She said: “I hope my clothes can combine the strength and softness of modern women.” “Unexpected details and palettes work together to create a kind of attractive and unshakable woman’s image. Mystery.”

Body clothes

Sinéad O’Dwyer’s conceptual design increased the enthusiasm of the body, thereby promoting the development of women’s underwear fashion, and produced single items for Björk, Arca and Kelsy-Lu.

She grew up in rural Ireland, “making strange clothes”, and received a master’s degree from the Royal College of Art in London in 2018. In the process of studying fashion, she faced the struggle of body deformation and outdated fashion sizing method. .

Sinéad O'Dwyer uses her model's body to make custom molds for her work (Spring-Summer 2020)

Sinéad O’Dwyer uses her model’s body to make custom molds for her work (Spring-Summer 2020) Credit: Otilli Landmarks / Sinard Oldwell

“I began to recognize my behaviors in terms of diet and body control, and why they had such a negative impact on me. I also considered how the industry chose the size and proportion of a food. The person who cuts the pattern block means that when you fit this shape to your body, you will think you have a problem. I started chatting with other women, which soon became a common story. “

Her experience forced O’Dwyer to start broadcasting live the corpses of friends and make wearable sculptures. This is an intensive process and may take several weeks to complete. Start by brushing the skin with gel, then harden it, and then apply clay. This will become a detailed mold from which other fiberglass templates can be made. The result is a fusion of silicone, silver and silk, subtly recreating each woman’s figure. Breasts and stomachs of various sizes and natural wrinkles can be displayed. She said: “It is important to insert corsets and underwear into the mold.”

“Historically, these are objects that shape female form, but now, the body shapes clothes.”

For the Spring / Summer 2020 collection that debuted at London Fashion Week, O’Dywer showed silk shoulder straps, coiled bands, light panties and soft bust bras.

Sinéad O'Dwyer 2020 spring and summer

Sinéad O’Dwyer 2020 spring and summer Credit: Otilli Landmarks / Sinard Oldwell

She said: “I am exploring the theme of nudity and eroticism through my work, which is considering the way I personally wear underwear. I want to show a beautiful and sensual female body,” “I also want to develop some maximum size of 30 Braided pieces. ”

O’Dwyer added: “Representative system is very important.” He warned that the idea and image are not enough. “Images are now changing the mental health of young people, but products that target real bodies must be followed-otherwise, this is just a trend.”

Above: Sinead O’Dwyer 2020 spring and summer

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